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Targa Florio Museum – Madonie Magic

Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale
Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale

Images by: Glen Smale & Corporate Archives Porsche AG

The Parco delle Madonie (Madonie Regional Natural Park) lies in the northern central region of Sicily, located in the rugged and beautiful Madonie mountain range. At its heart is the small town of Collesano, which lies at an altitude of 468 metres. Why is this important? Well, tucked away in the mountain town of Collesano, is the home of the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano, the official museum dedicated to the history and heritage of the famous Targa Florio road race.

Targa Florio, 3 May 1970:Drivers Brian Redman and Jo Siffert on their way to winning the race in their Porsche 908/03 Spyder. Corporate Archives Porsche AG
Targa Florio, 3 May 1970:Drivers Brian Redman and Jo Siffert on their way to winning the race in their Porsche 908/03 Spyder. Corporate Archives Porsche AG

But, to answer the question of how this famous road race came into existence in the first place, it is necessary to understand the state of the motoring world at the turn of the 20th century. At this time, while the motor industry itself was in its infancy, the sport of motoring had caught the imagination of those wealthy enough to compete, as well as the enthusiasm of the watching public. There were no formal closed race circuits in those early days, and as a result, races tended to be between cities. In addition, the quality and state of the public roads on which these races were run, was of questionable, sometimes dangerous condition, to say the least.

Targa Florio, 10 June 1956: Umberto Maglioli drove the entire race on his own, taking the No. 84Porsche 550 RS Spyder to victory (Huschke von Hanstein was listed but never drove). It was Porsche’s first overall win and the Sicilian driver’s second victory. Corporate Archives Porsche AG
Targa Florio, 10 June 1956: Umberto Maglioli drove the entire race on his own, taking the No. 84Porsche 550 RS Spyder to victory (Huschke von Hanstein was listed but never drove). It was Porsche’s first overall win and the Sicilian driver’s second victory. Corporate Archives Porsche AG

In contrast, the stoic courage evidenced by the persistence and perseverance of both driver and (necessary) riding mechanic, was presentin these early pioneers, in ship loads. The physical strength and bravery needed to compete in these conditions, was complemented by their great mental stamina and a steely determination to succeed. In fact, there was more at stake in succeeding on the international stage of motorsport than just personal triumph, there was the very strong national pride and recognition that came with such an achievement.

Vincenzo Florio

Born into an immensely wealthy family, Vincenzo Florio, a Palermo entrepreneur, was fascinated by the then new means of locomotion, the motor car. Florio was hugely influential in his home town of Palermo and more broadly throughout the island of Sicily. As one who had himself competed in the 1905 Gordon Bennett Cup, Vincenzo Florio was completely absorbed by the sport of motoring, and speed itself.

Bust of Vincenzo Florio which is prominently displayed as visitors enter the Museum. Glen Smale
Bust of Vincenzo Florio which is prominently displayed as visitors enter the Museum. Glen Smale

Returning to Palermo, Florio began to develop the seed of an idea given to him, to hold a race on Sicily that was not simply from point-to-point across flat terrain, but one that encompassed hills, turns, and many other challenges. And so he set about planning a competitive event through the countryside of his beloved Sicily, even though at this time he did not have a name for his proposed race.

Such was the growth and popularity of motorsport at that time, that he envisioned that other wealthy motor car owners would take up the challenge. Also, the motor manufacturers who wished to promote the performance and endurance of their products, would be keen to participate. Vincenzo Florio was right, the enthusiasm of car owners and public alike was healthy, such that the Targa Florio was certain to become over time a highly respected race, producing over the years names that would reverberate throughout the sport’s history.

The Early Years

It was perhaps fortunate for Vincenzo Florio that he was able to learn from others who were attempting to set up similar sporting events. Also, with the motor industry and motorsport itself being so young, there was not an existing model on which to base a new successful motor race in the mountains of Sicily. Despite this fact, the future looked exciting, but his first priority was to see to the successful completion of the 1905 Coppa Florio in Brescia.

Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years. Glen Smale
Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years. Glen Smale

Being an influential businessman and being possessed with a determination to succeed, Vincenzo Florio surrounded himself with a formidable band of like-minded individuals to begin the organisation for his new race. Having seen how things were done in France and in the Brescia Week races, Florio approached the editor of a well-known French sports magazine, with the view to publicising his plans. Back home, Florio’s band of helpers and supporters came from other local aristocratic families on the island, and so they were able to draw on innumerable and varied resources in order to get the new race off the ground. For instance, Florio himself opened the doors of his hotels for the drivers, dignitaries and attending media, while other buildings were cleared for race organisational purposes. The shipping of cars, team equipment and anything race related was no problem, as the Florio empire owned ships as well.

Where the Targa Florio differed from other races at the time, was that the Sicilian race would be won by an individual. Other races at that time, such as the Gordon Bennett Cup, was for competition between national automobile clubs, or nations, and not individuals. Early races saw acts of personal bravery in recovering from accident situations, or where almost superhuman feats of endurance ensured a car would finish the race.

Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale
Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale

It was hard for the locals not to get caught up in the atmosphere that the race created, as the route took the cars past the front doors of the villagers as they careened through the towns and villages. In the countryside, the cars similarly followed the roads that the locals used everyday, and so onlookers had only to walk to the bottom of their farm track to watch the race. As a result, the public would also pour out of every village to get a glimpse of this new spectacle and to support their local heroes, as this was every bit the latest activity to be enjoyed.

Targa Florio History

On the 6th May 1906, the first Targa Florio was run over what was called the Grande Circuito Delle Madonie, consisting of three laps of the 146.9 kilometre course. There were just ten starters, of which seven finished the course in a time of just over nine-and-a-half hours. The following year saw the entry list grow to 46 starters, but in the following years due to various difficulties in the economy, starting numbers fell, for instance, to just five starters in 1910.

For the three-year period between 1912 and 1914, Florio changed the course drastically to one which circumnavigated the entire island. Called the Giro di Sicilia, the drivers were only required to complete one lap of the almost 1,000 kilometre route. The race was not held during the years 1915 to 1918 due to the Great War, but racing resumed in 1919 over a shortened version of the original circuit. Now called the Medio Circuito Delle Madonie, the shorter distance required drivers to complete four laps of the 108 kilometre circuit.

Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale
Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale

This layout was used until, in 1925, one extra lap of the circuit was added, which then remained unchanged up to and including the 1930 race. For the 1931 race, the Targa Florio once again reverted to the Grande Circuito Delle Madonie, requiring four laps of the longer 148 kilometre circuit. A shorter circuit of just 72 kilometres, the Piccolo Circuito Delle Madonie, was laid down for the years 1932 to 1936, but then the format changed yet again. Between the four years from 1937 to 1940, the Targa Florio was reduced to a sort of Grand Prix format, comprising varying lengths of a circuit through the streets of Palermo, being called the Parco della Real Favorita. As the road layout changed so did the number of laps required.

World War II intervened and the next event to be held was in 1948. A huge entry list of 83 starters welcomed a return to the Giro di Sicilia route, the numbers no doubt boosted by the enthusiasm of drivers and manufacturers following the cessation of hostilities in Europe. In 1950 the entry list was literally bulging with 184 starters, but this dropped sharply the following year when the race returned to the shorter Piccolo Circuito Delle Madonie layout. The much smaller field remained until in 1957, when it increased to 136 entries.

Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale
Display of historical photos depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale

Perhaps it was due to the arrival of numerous big name manufacturers, such as: Ferrari, Porsche, and others, that the Targa Florio became even more popular. Instead of battles between behemoths such as the Itala, Darracq, De Dietrich, Franco, Scat, and others, the smaller and more nimble arrivals were more identifiable and fun to watch. There was also the fact that as the 1950s and 1960s wore on, more of these cars now participating in the Targa Florio became affordable to a greater number of the public.

Targa Florio, 8 May 1960: Graham Hill (sitting in car) and Joakim Bonnier chat before the race. Driving a Porsche 718 RS, Bonnier would win with Hans Herrmann, while Graham Hill and Edgar Barth would finish fifth overall in a similar car. Corporate Archives Porsche AG
Targa Florio, 8 May 1960: Graham Hill (sitting in car) and Joakim Bonnier chat before the race. Driving a Porsche 718 RS, Bonnier would win with Hans Herrmann, while Graham Hill and Edgar Barth would finish fifth overall in a similar car. Corporate Archives Porsche AG

By this time the structure and layout of the Targa Florio remained little changed, which no doubt was easier on the organisers, but also for the spectators who returned every year to the ‘favourite’ viewing spot. Porsche, Ferrari, Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Lancia, AC Shelby Cobra and Alpine became regular entrants and winners, most of these manufacturers producing cars that could be bought by the man in the street.

Painting of Nino Vaccarella in the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano. Glen Smale
Painting of Nino Vaccarella in the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano. Glen Smale

Enjoying its longest period of stability, for the 23 years between 1951 and 1973, the Targa Florio enjoyed unprecedented popularity and growth as a giant on the World Sportscar Championship calendar. It is estimated that at the height of the event’s popularity, as many as 500,000 spectators lined the entire route, with some estimates even quoting up to a million spectators. The vast majority of these were locals, ranging in age from the very youngest to the oldest local farmers, and included male and female alike.

The original Targa Florio was an event that involved, in one way or another, almost the whole of Sicily. Quite apart from the many thousands of visitors from all around the world, just about every resident who lived within earshot of the route, or knew somebody who did, came out to find themselves a suitable viewing spot from which to spectate. Then there were those diehard fans who camped out no matter the weather, and it was as varied as you could imagine. For those who lived in the towns and villages along the route, they had no option but to watch from their front doorstep, a window or a balcony if they had one.

The start/finish was near the town of Cerda, and the course ran in a counter-clockwise direction, with elevation varying from sea level to over 600 metres. Even in its shortest form, the Targa Florio comprised between 800 to 900 corners, making it very difficult to learn. The route back from Campofelice di Roccella on the Buonfornello straight along the coast towards the Cerda start/finish, was a straight section that was even longer than the Mulsanne Straight at the Circuit de la Sarthe in Le Mans. Here the drivers could relax slightly, but if the hot Sirocco wind from North Africa was blowing, then this section could become treacherous.

Targa Florio, 8 May 1966: Vincenzo Arena and Antonio Pucci finished third overall in the No. 144 Porsche 906. Corporate Archives Porsche AG
Targa Florio, 8 May 1966: Vincenzo Arena and Antonio Pucci finished third overall in the No. 144 Porsche 906. Corporate Archives Porsche AG

Mastering the Targa Florio was perhaps an illusion for most, but local ace Nino Vaccarella did better than most. Born in Palermo, this had as much to do with his mastery and knowledge of the circuit, as with the locals who were fanatic supporters of the Palermo school teacher and headmaster. Vaccarella is one of just three drivers to have won the Targa Florio three times (1965, 1971, 1975), his last win in ’75 was when it was no longer a World Sportscar Championship event.

The other two drivers, Umberto Maglioli (1953, 1956, 1968) and Olivier Gendebien (1958, 1961, 1962) won it three times apiece while it was still an official round of the World Sportscar Championship.

Targa Florio, 5 May 1968: A really great head-on shot of the No. 224 Porsche 907 KH cornering hard. The works car was driven to overall victory by Vic Elford and Umberto Maglioli. Corporate Archives Porsche AG
Targa Florio, 5 May 1968: A really great head-on shot of the No. 224 Porsche 907 KH cornering hard. The works car was driven to overall victory by Vic Elford and Umberto Maglioli. Corporate Archives Porsche AG

Although British driver Vic Elford only won the Targa Florio once, his victory in 1968 together with Umberto Maglioli in a 2.2-litre eight-cylinder Porsche 907, stands as an example of commitment and courage to this day. Elford started his assault on the Sicilian race by thrashing the existing lap record in practice by 22 seconds! Soon after the start of the race, though, the centre-lock nut on one of his rear wheels came loose, and he was forced to drive slowly to the next repair point where a new wheel and nut were fitted.

However, the same nut worked loose again, and this time he hit a rock and blew his tyre, but the determined Brit stopped and fitted the spare wheel.

Once back at his pit box, the problem was remedied but he was now well down the order. The two works Alfa Romeo 33/2s now took the lead, but Elford was in the mood for a fight. He figured that if he couldn’t at least secure a podium place, he would certainly have a go at the lap record again. Having sliced 22 seconds off the lap record the previous day, he took a further 45 seconds off that time, slicing through the field to take overall victory.

This demonstration stands out today as one of the most extraordinary feats of motorsport endurance and determination in this great race.

Targa Florio, 3 May 1970: It’s all hands on deck as the No. 12 Porsche 908/03 driven by Jo Siffert and Brian Redman stops in the pits. The flurry of activity certainly paid off because the Siffert/Redman car was victorious. Standing on the pit counter, from left to right (in long coat) is Ferdinand Piëch, John Wyer (behind) and Helmuth Bott, with Peter Falk sitting behind (with hat) at the timing desk. Brian Redman (in white helmet on the right) waits to climb aboard. Corporate Archives Porsche AG
Targa Florio, 3 May 1970: It’s all hands on deck as the No. 12 Porsche 908/03 driven by Jo Siffert and Brian Redman stops in the pits. The flurry of activity certainly paid off because the Siffert/Redman car was victorious. Standing on the pit counter, from left to right (in long coat) is Ferdinand Piëch, John Wyer (behind) and Helmuth Bott, with Peter Falk sitting behind (with hat) at the timing desk. Brian Redman (in white helmet on the right) waits to climb aboard. Corporate Archives Porsche AG

From a manufacturer’s perspective, Porsche has won the Targa Florio more times (eleven wins) than any other make. Alfa Romeo comes in a close second with ten wins, while Ferrari have scored seven wins and Lancia five. Although the Targa Florio ceased to be an official round of the World Sportscar Championship, with 1973 being the last year, the event did continue until 1977 as a national event.

The reasons behind the demise of this great road race were many and varied. Although driver and spectator safety are frequently bandied about as the reasons behind the termination of certain races, just nine people died in the Targa Florio, including both drivers and spectators in its 61-race history. This compares with 56 deaths in the Mille Miglia over 24 races, and 25 deaths in the 5-year history of the Carrera Panamericana. But if truth be told, the real reasons behind the demise of the Targa Florio have more to do with the increased professionalism of drivers as well as the increased sophistication of cars.

Display of paintings depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale
Display of paintings depicting various scenes in the Targa Florio over the years.Glen Smale

Where previously little thought was given to the car’s ground clearance in the early years, as the 1970s approached, low front lip spoilers became an issue on the uneven roads. Also, as vehicle aerodynamics became increasingly important and sensitive to ride height, the uneven road surfaces of the regular country roads around Sicily tended to upset the behaviour of the race cars, many of which were set up for smooth, closed-circuit racing. With increased performance came higher speeds, and this became an issue on the tight mountain roads and in the smaller towns and villages.

Added to this were the voices of the drivers themselves. Many of them, understandably, raised issues about crowd safety where it was not unheard of to have spectators running across the road in front of a race car in order to get a better view. Another factor that became an issue, was the condition of the roads themselves. On all of the various circuit layouts, the roads were simple country roads that were used by farmers during the year, where a donkey cart would be seen just as often as regular cars and trucks. The village roads were also extremely uneven, with repairs amounting to little more than patching up here and there.

Meet the team! Standing on the left is a model dressed as Ferrari racing chief, Mauro Forghieri; next is the Italian driver Andrea de Adamich (with black helmet), while on the right is Swiss driver, Herbie Müller (in red helmet). Glen Smale
Meet the team! Standing on the left is a model dressed as Ferrari racing chief, Mauro Forghieri; next is the Italian driver Andrea de Adamich (with black helmet), while on the right is Swiss driver, Herbie Müller (in red helmet). Glen Smale

So, as sad as it was to see the Targa Florio descend into oblivion, that is life, and those memories of a bygone era will now only be just that. However, the Targa Florio has been given a new look, and today the Targa Florio Classica seeks to keep those memories alive, which is great, but it will not and cannot be the same as it used to be. The drivers and cars belong to that former era, when technical innovation and experimentation were the strengths that set you apart from your rivals.

Museum of the Targa Florio di Collesano

The history of this fantastically ambitious idea of a race was formed and created at the dawn of an era that will never be repeated. It was back in a time when taking a risk on such a venture was applauded by one and all. Unfortunately, that time now belongs in a museum, but thankfully there are those whose goal it is to preserve this rich history.

The unassuming entrance of the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano occupies an important place in the town next door to the Town Hall. Glen Smale
The unassuming entrance of the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano occupies an important place in the town next door to the Town Hall. Glen Smale

One of those enthusiasts was Giacinto Gargano who grew up in Collesano and became the local bank clerk in the town. It is not hard to imagine the excitement that ran through the fabric of a small town along the route, and as Giacinto grew up, his enthusiasm for the race grew with him. In time, he proposed the idea to create a museum to the memory of this great race, as their town had played an important part in that history.

Giacinto Gargano. Glen Smale
Giacinto Gargano. Glen Smale

Giacinto Gargano realised his dream when, on 27 June 2004, the ACI Italia (ACI – Automobile Club d’Italia) inaugurated the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano. Housed in a former Dominican convent adjacent to the town hall, it boasts a refined and elegant ambience. It is not a huge museum along the lines of a large manufacturer’s museum, this is a ‘not-for-profit’ establishment that is packed with memorabilia from the greats who competed in the Targa Florio. It does not house any race cars, but you are able to wind your way through the corridors of this establishment, admiring the many items of significance from the day.

Founding fathers of the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesanodated27 June 2004. Honorary President is listed as none other than Nino Vaccarella, and Giacinto Gargano as the ‘Conservatore’. Glen Smale
Founding fathers of the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesanodated27 June 2004. Honorary President is listed as none other than Nino Vaccarella, and Giacinto Gargano as the ‘Conservatore’. Glen Smale

Inside the museum, the visitor is welcomed into the first hall where a bust of Vincenzo Florio, the race’s creator, is located.

The history feast progresses from there to include such items as race car parts, workshop tools and equipment, as well as race helmets and overalls from some of the great drivers. The walls are adorned with a plethora of previously unpublished photos, retracing the history of the Targa Florio through the decades.

The jewels in the crown are surely the bronze winners’ plates from the years 1921, 1932, 1937, 1950, and the 1965 victory plate of the famous Nino Vaccarella (paired with Lorenzo Bandini in a Ferrari), multiple winner and honorary president of the Museum.

For the diehard Targa Florio fans, the multimedia cinema is a must, allowing visitors to become immersed in the evocative journey of unpublished films of the time.

Mechanic’s tools from the past. Glen Smale
Mechanic’s tools from the past. Glen Smale

Just up the road, within easy walking distance of the Museum, is the famous corner that has been photographed hundreds, if not thousands of times. The hairpin, is still so easily recognisable from in period, when the likes of Giunti, Scarfiotti, Merzario, Redman, Siffert, Vaccarella, Elford, and so many more famous drivers, would negotiate the sharp turn which was lined with straw bales.

Photographers would position themselves high up on the slope from where they could catch the cars below them approaching the hairpin from their left, rounding the sharp curve, and then accelerating through the town and out into the countryside. All along the stone walls at street level, were the words ‘NINO’ and ‘FERRARI’ painted in whitewash, the outlines of which can still be seen today. This was a real Targa Florio town!

The famous corner in the town of Collesano featuring a tile mosaic of the duel in 1970 between the No. 12 Gulf Porsche 908/03 of Siffert/Redman (winner) and the Ferrari 512 S of Giunti/Vaccarella (finished third overall). Glen Smale
The famous corner in the town of Collesano featuring a tile mosaic of the duel in 1970 between the No. 12 Gulf Porsche 908/03 of Siffert/Redman (winner) and the Ferrari 512 S of Giunti/Vaccarella (finished third overall). Glen Smale

To round off the visit, a short drive back towards the coast and along the long straight will bring you to the ‘Tribune di Floriopoli’, the start/finish line, the old foot bridge over the road and the buildings of the old pit complex and grandstands. This was erected in 1920s, and although these buildings are still in existence today, they are in a very sad state of repair, serving only as a reminder of a fabulous bygone era.

The old pit complex, Tribune di Floriopoli, near Cerda. Today this is just shadow of its former glory and prominence. Glen Smale
The old pit complex, Tribune di Floriopoli, near Cerda. Today this is just shadow of its former glory and prominence. Glen Smale

Today

This year, the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano is celebrating its 20th anniversary since opening its doors. While the founder, Giacinto Gargano died in 2013, the responsibility of maintaining the dream his father created, has passed to his son Michele Gargano. Blessed with the same enthusiasm and fervour, Michele, now the museum’s Conservator, actively promotes the museum, educating visitors through his vast knowledge of the race, and everything Targa Florio related.

The old steel bridge over the start/finish line is a sad reminder of the glory days of the Targa Florio. Glen Smale
The old steel bridge over the start/finish line is a sad reminder of the glory days of the Targa Florio. Glen Smale

If you are planning to visit the Museo della Targa Florio di Collesano, then do yourself a favour and get a copy of that great tome on the subject, Targa Florio – 20th Century Epic: The Official Centenary Book, reviewed on this site. Authors Pino Fondi and Gianni Cancellieri capture the history and heritage of this great race immaculately.

Enjoy the journey!